Tuesday, June 05, 2007

Bern, Fiction

We'd been studying in my English class the novel by Alan Lightman, Einstein's Dreams. (Search on this site for other posts about the novel.) So we headed up to Bern to see this town.



The clock chimed the hours with a petite show of movement from circling bears, dancing jesters, and a cock of the hand from the seated figure. Underwhelming, as astronomical clocks go. I'd read so much about this clock and the reality collided with the fictional universe.

We walked further down Kramgasse to find the place where Albert Einstein lived. There's an interesting chapter in Lightman's novel about the world being fragmented, each house living in a different time. I wondered, if Mr. Einstein could see this now, if he might feel that his life was so: this fragment--this seven years of his life--celebrated in Bern. Other fragments in other towns equally trussed up for display.

Einstein Haus

We posed for a photo next to Zahringer Fountain. In the early days of town, these fountains were the source of water for the residents, and the back alley behind these buildings was where they threw their waste water. Generally these fountains all have carved and painted wooden figures atop the pedestal, with four spigots below. The Zahringer Fountain has a bear on top, the town's mascot. (Long story.)


The apartment was small: this room for the living/dining room, a back room which was their bedroom (and where the Caisse Lady was positioned to catch the tourists' "six Swiss francs each, bitte") two hallways: one where they did the cooking, and one which was their storage. But apparently to Einstein, who worked at the Patent Office, it was a lovely haven, where he thought up many significant ideas. A miracle year, as it's known.



How many of us would like to have a fragment of time to point to, as we do now with Einstein? Can I ever point to a place on the clock of my life as my miracle year, the year I was productive, profound and for a shining moment, exquisitely brilliant?

Can any of us?




Bern, Fact

Samson Fountain
Bern, Switzerland
June 2007

If you can imagine that the lion with his mouth open is really just in a Giant Yawn, and that the figure above represents two jet-lagged travelers who left their home twenty hours earlier and are trying in vain to shut that yawning mouth, you have a good sense of how we felt about the world that first day in Bern.

Kramgasse
Bern Switzerland
June 2007

The streets in the old section of town are lined with four and five story buildings, with shops on the first floor behind the curved arcades. The place used to be built of wood, but a Big Fire convinced them that sandstone was a better building material.

An early map of Bern (from the 1300s) shows the unique wrap-around of the river Aare. It's green and swift-moving. The clock tower is in about the middle of the picture of above, on the wider curving street going north and south in the illustration.

Aare River, from the Terrace
Bern, Switzerland
June 2007


What's a good medieval town without its church? This one is the Cathedral of St. Vincent, with a terrific portal over its front door. It depicts on the right side, all those who are going to Hell, and on the left side, those who are going to Heaven. Of course I'm entranced by the unnamed figure yielding the sword in the middle of all them.

Saucy Swordswoman
Bern Switzerland
June 2007

Dave found the representation of the five foolish virgins, woefully holding empty lamps. If I'm not mistaken, the figure second from the left is a GUY, proving that this parable holds up for the male portion of the population.

The five wise virgins, lamps all aflame, happy faces all around.

Painted Doors
Bern Switzerland
June 2007

We walked all the way down Kramgasse and veered off on Nydeggstalden, . . .
Untertorbrucke
Bern, Switzerland
June 2007

. . . over the small bridge called Untertor Bridge, up the hill past the Bear Pits (ick), across the Nydegg Bridge, and then down a long covered set of stairs. . .


. . . to the Aare river. Part of it was driven by my desire to photograph a lot of places in the book Einstein's Dreams, but we were also running out of things to see. Dave took another covered walkway up to the park by St. Vincent's cathedral and I went instead for the novel option of an elevator. I pushed the button, waited, and the elevator descended. A little man popped out and said he would grant me one wish, provided I paid him in Swiss francs. I said I wished to rejoin my ascending husband. Granted. He held out his palm for the 1.20, pushed some buttons and up we went. (At least I think that's how the conversation went. I don't speak German.)

Back at the hotel, we checked out email, and I put my head on my hand and went dead asleep. Dave woke me and took me to dinner. . .

. . . but not here. See other post for food references. It was an early night, struggling as we were to stay awake. But in the middle of the night I struggled to stay asleep. A melatonin tablet, dissolved under the tongue, was my new best friend that night.

We were up early and walked around the unpopulated Bern. The only people around at that hour are the produce people, unloading their wares for the market in Bundesplatz.

Greens
Bern, Switzerland
June 2007

Passageway to the Aare
Bern Switzerland
June 2007

Whether it was because we felt more human after sleeping, or the early morning hour, but we liked Bern much better in the morning. We had the streets to ourselves, and watched the Astronomical Clock go again. This time it tolled seven times and was more impressive.

Decorated Facade on Junkerngasse
Bern, Switzerland
June 2007

Early Morning on Kramgasse
Bern, Switzerland
June 2007

Zahringer Fountain
Bern, Switzerland
June 2007

In the morning's hunks and colors, the Zahringer Fountain glowed, the Clock Tower a picturesque backdrop.

Dave, Contemplating Early Morning Mysteries
Bern, Switzerland
June 2007

We wandered round one last time, then returned to hotel for breakfast and showers (bliss!) before heading off to catch our train.

Flags
Bern, Switzerland
June 2007

Voyages at first appear on the horizon like miniature sailing ships as we scramble to arrange hotels, transportation, schedules, make plans for that distant day when we'll board the traveling vessel and land into a different place. We turn our heads to glance at something else, and in that moment, the ship arrives. We board.

Friday, June 01, 2007

"The glory of travel is that one always--always--gets lost. A trip is measured, really, only by how far we step off the expected path, stumble into things we never wanted to see, fall between the cracks and the words on the schedule sheet, in effect, and tumble into mystery."

Pico Iyer, as quoted in the LATimes, Sunday 27 May 2007.

Tuesday, May 29, 2007


Two Button Mouse

Yes, had to buy one because the old mouse died. Its radar-looking red light was erratic, clumsy, a bit daffy as well as forgetful. (I'm not drawing any parallels here between the mouse and the user.)

The little nib is a scroller and the first time I used it the page went whipping past me like a life being reviewed at an accident scene. Now I can hit my target within a reasonable distance most of the time. There are some helpful features I've been told, of which I've only discovered one: you can choose which document to open your files, helpful for jpgs that come in over the transom.
To finish off the desert pictures. . .

Cafe
Yucca Arizona
May 2007


Doorway
Yucca Arizona
May 2007

Brick Tiara
Yucca Arizona
May 2007

Green Room
Yucca Arizona
May 2007


Sunlight Morse Code
Yucca Arizona
May 2007

Honolulu Club
Other Side of the Highway
May 2007

Move-In Special: Act Now!
Yucca Arizona
May 2007

Lounge Here
Yucca Arizona
May 2007

Gingerbread Porch
Yucca Arizona
May 2007

I'm always amazed by the quality of abandonment that can exist in these small towns, whether it be a collection of bony skulls that adorn a back porch, a lounge chair that some housewife wanted out of the way, or faded gingerbread along a porch's awning.

They remind me of the things I abandon--but less publicly: cast-offs stored in boxes and bins out in the garage. Perhaps that's my version of the desert side of the road. And yet, even though I'm convinced of the necessity of paring down, getting rid of, I see a book discard at the library and pause to peruse the cart. The neighbors clear out for good and I think I could probably use their little discarded riding toy for my grandchildren.

And so, surrounded by mountains of things, I spend my time taking care of them, moving them around, repacking after I've sorted through one more box (what am I saving this for?). I remember when Dave's Dad cleared out his file drawers, the wistful way he said he just upended the drawers of his ideas, plans, hopes for the future into the trash. A melancholy recital of the purge. And I've been the recipient of envelopes, boxes from my own parents, as they tire of taking care of the stuff.

My kids are next. Time to take back my desert garage.


Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Posers

It's important, nowadays, to get your pose down.

It can be a laid back, arms crossed version like the kid in the middle front. Another popular pose is the peace sign, of which, in this generation, there is no connection to Vietnam, protests or Richard Nixon. Just Peace Out. The all-purpose, lean over to your friends pose is also popular.

But the one that takes the cake in this eighth-grade photo after a school field trip is the boy? girl? in the front left: one leg extended to the side, hood down over face, leaning with arms crossed on the bent leg.

Now that's an original.

Stop and Rest a While
Yucca, Arizona
May 2007

Off
Yucca, Arizona
May 2007

Tilted Timber
Yucca, Arizona
May 2007

Askew
Yucca Arizona
May 2007

Motel Kitchen Window
Yucca Arizona
May 2007

Outside the Motel Kitchen
Yucca Arizona
May 2007

Monday, May 21, 2007

Zig-Zag.

(Grouping inspired by a cactus from Kingman Arizona)




Wednesday, May 16, 2007

While trying to get some stuff done, I remembered this great video Peter told me about.

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Per Favore? Grazie.
Some Days Are Like That



Alberta's Rose

When Dave's mother passed away, friends of ours brought us a rosebush to plant in her honor. For a full year, it sat in the corner of our yard, surviving against all odds. After removing the star pine tree before we left for DC, I now had a place for the rose. When I tried to lift up the bucket I found out why it had survived: a sturdy taproot had found water.

In the new place, near my vegetable garden, it has done well and I think good thoughts about Sal and Marlene and their kindness. Although not the real name, we call this the Alberta rose after his mother. This year the blooms were vivid, and I clipped one and put in a small vase by the kitchen sink

Trying to hurry out the door this Sunday, I couldn't find Dave.

I found him crouched outside, taking a photo of his mother's rose on Mother's Day.