Ornamentation
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Laundry in Lyon
Yes, there comes a time in every tourist's life when they have to do their laundry. And the first things is re-packing up dirty clothes in the rolling suitcase, getting tons of coins and then decoding the "easy" signs and instructions.
Yes, there comes a time in every tourist's life when they have to do their laundry. And the first things is re-packing up dirty clothes in the rolling suitcase, getting tons of coins and then decoding the "easy" signs and instructions.
Oh, here. Enter a number (every machine and the soap dispenser has a number), money and the pound sign and voila! Clean laundry.
This must mean out of order. Love the orange washing machine. We are so behind with our white and black colors.Thursday, June 14, 2007
Le Menu II
Le Menu II
Friday Morning do-the-laundry breakfast: low-grade almond croissant picked up from local stand, coupled with delicious mango juice.
Another morning I splurged and got a round du chocolate. It was so rich that I felt like I 'd eaten dessert. A once in a month kind of treat. I also picked up a baguette for Dave later that afternoon and they twist the paper around for a carrying handle (below).
While Dave was still working on Saturday morning, I went shopping. This is my lunch from the mall: a chicken sandwich with a spicy dijon mayonaise, a macaroon with chocolate filling and an apple juice. Simple and every part has a "taste," quite different from fast foods in the U.S.
Dinner up by the Basilica on Fourviere Hill at "Restaurant de Fourviere." Our first course was salmon fettucini, these are our second courses: mine (foreground) was red fish atop thinly julienned (think spaghetti-thin) zucchini and green spaghetti. Dave's was sheep shank with "legumes" (vegetables).
Cheese course followed the meal. This was the hard cheeses. The soft cheese looked like a molded cottage cheese which people sprinkled with sugar.
Sunday's lunch (we skipped breakfast, sleeping through it): bought at the marche.

We wanted a quicker meal on Sunday night, as Dave was working on his writing, so opted for a main dish at the local pedestrian restaurant street. Mine is above: "gambas" or shrimp. I got the WHOLE shrimp, along with dead rice, really dead zucchini, and a few lettuce leaves.
Dave ordered a Lyonaise salad: fresh fruits, fresh salad greens, two kinds of dressing and poached egg. It was our only mediocre meal in Lyon (aside from the laundry breakfast).
Baby greens, a teensy wedge of fresh goat chees and some tomato in a light vinaigrette at a Paul Bocuse brasserie: Le Nord. This is our last evening restaurant meal in Lyon.
Mine: salmon with three new potatoes atop a melange of chopped vegetables, zucchini the dominant ingredient.
Dave had roast pork with a brown reduction sauce--very flavorful.
This was an interesting dessert one of my new friends had: Floating Island. It's sweetened egg whites, whipped, floating in a creme anglaise sauce and drizzled with caramel.
Lunch on Tuesday was back at Le Petit and I had a chicken-chutney mixture all wrapped up like a gift in filo dough, accompanied by a green salad.

Leaving on the evening train to Geneva, we stopped at "Paul" for two last baguette sandwiches. Dave also picked up a pretzel-shaped bread that had bits of ham baked into it, an apple tart and two "pain au chocolat" for our breakfast tomorrow morning. As usual, fabulous. We ate the looping bread before the train arrived, standing in the hot muggy air on the train platform. The sandwiches were our dinner as we slid through the green countryside in a silver line of cars. And the breakfast we ate the next morning in our (hot--they turn off the air conditioning at night) hotel room in Switzerland.
Monday, June 11, 2007
The next day, Barbara J. met me and we traveled up to the area by the Hotel de Ville: City Hall, which was swathed in scaffolding and wraps for renovation. This fountain was the first thingwe saw exiting the Metro. What's European city without its requisite modern sculpture?
Some European sculpture I find intriguing, like the tower of people in Brussels. But I just didn't "get" these. And they're captioned in French. Dave said we could have a sabbatical in Lyon. I told him I'd need a two year head start in order to take French lessons and learn the language.
We strolled up the hill from the plaza, and saw this beautiful set of doors on this church, then noticed the stone carvings on it had been damaged. The sign below details the reason: cannonballs.
We heard organ playing and wanted to get in there. (Her father makes and plays organs.) A door opened on the side, and we were allowed in. The white-haired man asked: "Do you speak English? Or American?" We laughed. Turns out he had lived in North Carolina for a few months, not too far from Barbara, working with the machines that spun yarns for textile weaving. "Oh," she told him sadly, "the mills are all gone--gone to China." He shook his head. All the mills and weaving are gone from Lyon as well, once known as the center of silk production for Europe, and where the Jacquard loom was invented.
The church was in sad condition in the interior, but the professor sat at the organ, guiding his student's lesson. We sat and listened.
Every church seems to have its memorial to the dead. This one appears to be for those that died from the influenza at the beginning of the last century.
We ate lunch at a little shop called Le Petit Moment near our hotel, then wandered around looking for this church: Abbaye St-Martin d'Ainay, dating from the 11th century by the Carolingans. I loved the spare look of it, and the restoration was beautifully done.
Most of these shots are from the outside, as the church was closed. While we were there, a florist delivered some flowers. She spoke a little English (again, I need to learn French, if I'm going to travel here) and said she didn't think it would be open later, "as there is a dead person in there."We went home, and after resting for a short while, I went back to see the interior of the church. I slipped in the side door, just in time to see them carry the casket out the front.




I left d'Ainay and walked to the river a block away, then crossed it and headed to St. Jean, the other huge cathedral in Lyon.
Left Bank of the Saone
Lyon, France
June 2007
Tower
Lyon, France
June 2007
Left Bank of the SaoneLyon, France
June 2007
TowerLyon, France
June 2007

I was slow moving the next day, lingering around our hotel. When I finally headed north up the peninsula, I wandered along the pedestrian "shopping" streets, including this arcade that connects to the next street over. Printemps Dept. Store is in this area: lovely to look at, but the prices indicated that it was looking store only. I calculated that there's an approximate 30% mark-up on every price as the dollar is weak right now against the euro.
The big shopping mall is anchored by Galeries Lafayette, a store on the level of Macy's. The center court has an interesting fountain that shoots up four stories high on occasion, then drops back down and up again in a random pattern. I wandered the mall, venturing now and again in to look at shops, but not really ready to make the leap and plunge into the retail clothing experience. It's hard enough to find things that you like and that fit in your own language and country.
The carousel at the mall, complete with vendors below selling flying helicopters. They spotted me with my camera and really put on quite a show.
Then I decided to try Carrefours, the French equivalent of Wal-Mart. In all ways. In every way. A clone. Except for the sight of these nifty shelf tags that are electronic and changeable, the experience was dulling and overwhelming and frustrating. Just like Wal-Mart at home.While standing line to pay--the wrong line, it turned out--I thought about the Tower of Babel. If the Lord was going to divide and confuse his people, making different languages was a brilliant way to do it. However it also can unify people, as when you hear your own language after traveling for a while, you turn to the speaker, even if they are Australian, like the woman I shared a table with the next day at the Place Bellecour sandwich shop. We had a great conversation--in English.
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